Three Piece Suit – Double Breasted Jacket

Mens Three Piece Suit

Jacket: Full Length

Wearing a jacket, measure from the bottom of the melton (cloth under the collar) down along the centre back seam to the desired length of the jacket (or coat). The figure you give will be what you get including figurations.

Jacket: Half Back

Measure from the centre back seam approximately 4" to 5" down from the collar across to the side seam close to where the sleeve seam joins the side body.

Jacket: Shoulder Point-to-point

Measure from the point at which the shoulder seam meets the shoulder end at the sleeve seam (T junction) at one side and run the tape horizontally across the back, below the collar, to the same point on the other side.

Jacket: Crown to Cuff

With the metal end of your tape at the bottom, measure from the centre of the cuff up to the top of the crown (often where the shoulder seam joins the crown).

Jacket: Top Button Position

This measurement is optional for single breasted jackets and will override the normal button position dictated by the standard pattern/measures. Turn the collar and lapel worn by the client up. Take the tape end and place at the point where the collar under melton meets the top of the centre back seam. Run the tape around the neck/crease and down the forepart over the chest to the position of the centre of the top button. If this is for a single breasted 2, 3 or 4 we will reposition the lower button positions.

Jacket: Chest

With arms raised, have the tap run around the chest, up into the armpit, horizontal to the floor and over the shoulder blades. Lower arms after positioning the tape. This is a body measurement but it should not be too tight; a couple of fingers worth of ease can be allowed.

Jacket: Jacket Waist

From the side, run the tape around the waist about 2" below the rib cage approximately where the jacket is fastened (middle button on a SB3, top button on a SB2).
This should be a body measurement with a finger or two of ease.

Jacket: Jacket Seat

Put feet together and from the side, place the tape measure around the widest part of his seat/hips. The tape must run smoothly up and down, neither too loose nor too tight. The amount of are or figure hugging can be adjusted with this measure.

Jacket: Half Waist

This is a finished jacket measure. We will attempt to replicate your measurement and thus the look/shape of the customers current jacket. This is NOT always an exact science due to the drape, natural stretch and shrinkage properties of some cloths. Lay the jacket open/ at and measure from the leaf edge round to the centre back seam at the level of the principal working button - the top button on SB2 or the middle button on SB3.

Jacket: Height

Waistcoat: Chest Opening

Place the tape around the back of the neck, below the
shirt collar and run it around the front, bringing it together representing the desired opening. Take this measurement and divide by 2.

Waistcoat: Front Lengh

Place the end of the tape below the shirt collar at the centre back (many shirts with a split yoke will have a seam at this point). Run the tape around the collar and then straight down the chest, over the waist band to the desired length.

Waistcoat: Chest

Standing in front and slightly to the side of the customer, ask him to raise his arms and run your tape around the chest, high up into the armpit, horizontal to the floor and over the shoulder blades. Lower arms after positioning tape. This is a body measurement but it should not be too tight. A couple of fingers of ease should be allowed.

Waistcoat: Waist

Standing in front and slightly to the side of the customer, run the tape around his waist about 2" below the rib cage approximating to where the jacket is fastened (middle button on a SB3, top button on a SB2). This should be
a body measurement with a finger or two of ease. The customer’s expectations of t/shape should be established and the appropriate t/block should be selected.

Waistcoat: Height

Trouser: Waist

Place the tape around the part of the waist where the trousers will be worn. The measure you give is the measure they will be made to.

Trouser: Inside Leg

Take measurements while wearing trousers. Hold the tape high up the inside leg at the fork, if the crutch position of these trousers is satisfactory. If the current trousers are too high or too low take this into account or ask him to pull them up/ down to the desired crutch position. Then run the tape down the inside leg seam to the desired length.

Trouser: Outside Leg

Ask the customer to position the waistband of his trousers at the level he wishes to wear them - on, above or below the hips. Measure down along the outside leg seam to the desired length, including the waistband.

Trouser: 'U' Measure

Ask the customer to hold the tape at the top of the waistband above the y, or at a new lower or higher position if current trousers are not to be copied, and pass the tape through the legs matching the t (rise) of the current trousers and measure to the point at the top of the waistband above the centre seam.

Trouser: Bottoms

Give the full circumference of the trouser bottom.

Trouser: Trouser Thigh

The thigh measure is taken 3" below the fork/crutch. It is a net body measurement only. The finished trouser will depend on which block and front style is selected (plain fronts or single/double or deep pleat).

Trouser: Knee Measure

The knee measurement is taken at the knee and should be measured either at or if worn from crease to crease and doubled. This is a guide to the pattern cutter and cannot always be adhered to in the interests of creating a sensible shaped leg.

Trouser: Height

Three Piece Suit – Double Breasted Jacket

Recommended Cloth

LM KT 550 500 OC 4S

LM TV 953 430 E 4S

LM TV 964 430 E 11N

LM TV 966 430 E 13H

LM TV 983 430 P 5S

LM KT 556 500 T 4S

JE NM CDS308UB195012 370 HB 5S

JE HET CDS62WC878213 480 OC 4S

LM ET 868 640 OC 4S

HE WB DT 34598 440 M 5H

HE WB DT 34613 440 M 8S

LM KT 500 500 OC 4S

Choose Tweed / Cloth

BO BF 8000 300-330 OC 5H

BO BF 8001 300-330 OC 9H

BO BF 8002 300-330 OC 8S

BO BF 8003 300-330 OC 8S

BO BF 8004 300-330 GQ 8H

BO BF 8005 300-330 GQ 8H

BO BF 8006 300-330 GQ 8H

BO BF 8007 300-330 GQ 8H

BO BF 8008 300-330 GQ 5H

BO BF 8009 300-330 GQ 1H

BO BF 8010 300-330 GQ 11N

BO BF 8011 300-330 PL 13H

BO BF 8012 300-330 CH 5/6H

BO BF 8013 300-330 OC 5H

BO BF 8014 300-330 OC 5H

BO BF 8015 300-330 OC 5H

Size

Choose Linings

BB LD 50402 110 DT 9/10H

BB LD 50620 255 P 9H

BB LD 50618 255 P 5H

BB LD 50610 210 P 13H

BB LD 50609 210 P 13H

BB LD 50608 210 P 4H

BB LD 50607 210 P 7H

BB LD 50606 210 P 9H

BB LD 50605 210 P 3H

BB LD 50604 210 P 5H

BB LD 50603 210 P 1H

BB LD 50602 210 P 11S

BB LD 50601 210 P 10S

BB LD 50599X 145 P 9H

BB LD 50599 145 P 8H

BB LD 50595 145 P 8H

Add Fit

Regular block

Fitted block

Slim fit block

Comfortable fit block

Add Jacket Front Hem

Curved Hem

Square Hem

Cutaway Hem

Add Buttons

1 Button

2 Button

3 Button

4 Button

Add Working Cuff

No

Yes

Add Cuff Buttons

1 button cuff

2 button cuff

3 button cuff

4 button cuff

Add Lapels

Notch Lapels

Peak Lapels

Add Vents

Centre Back Vent

Side Vent

Add Pocket Options

Straight Lower

Slant lower